What to Pack for the Great Bear Rainforest: 6 Days at Spirit Bear Lodge
I had my Great Bear Rainforest packing list all wrong before we even left. I pictured six days at Spirit Bear Lodge with some wildlife watching, but also plenty of lodge time. In my head, there was a roaring fire, my feet up, some knitting and perhaps even something resembling afternoon tea.
None of that happened.
Instead, something far more exciting happened. Our days started early and were filled with long boat rides, wet landings, hiking, climbing in and out of inflatables, and hours of quiet waiting for bears to appear. Then we hiked back out, climbed into the boats again, and headed back to the lodge…watching for whales, seals, eagles, sea lions, otters, ravens, and other wildlife along the way.
It was exhilarating and exhausting in the best possible way.
By the end of most days, the idea of reading, knitting, or changing into a fresh dinner outfit had completely lost its appeal. I had packed for the lodge I imagined instead of the trip we were actually taking.
So this Great Bear Rainforest packing list is based on what I really used, what I didn’t need, and what I would pack differently after six days of bear and whale watching at Spirit Bear Lodge.
Getting to Spirit Bear Lodge
We flew from Vancouver’s South Terminal on a twin-engine prop plane to Bella Bella, followed by about a 90-minute boat ride to Spirit Bear Lodge. Because getting here involves both a flight and a boat transfer, I was especially careful about what stayed with me in my carry-on.
Our flight was delayed, so we arrived late and had a very choppy boat ride. Thankfully, I’d planned for seasickness and never felt any. If boats aren’t your friend, it’s worth knowing that every day involves a lot of time on the water.
The lodge is simple and comfortable. Dinner was served family-style at long tables, and the food was excellent. They were also very accommodating about dietary preferences, making a beautiful seafood dish for the few of us who didn’t eat meat.
What a Typical Bear-Watching Day Is Really Like
Breakfast was at 7 a.m., buffet-style. Afterward the lodge put out sandwiches, fruit, cookies, juice, and other snacks so we could pack our own lunches into reusable metal containers.
Then came the gear. Over whatever we were already wearing, we pulled on rubber pants and knee-high boots, added a rain jacket if needed, and wore a life jacket.
The boats left at 8 a.m. sharp. You felt pretty foolish racing down the ramp while everyone else was already waiting.
Depending on the day, we might spend 90 minutes to two hours on the boat before reaching a viewing area. Then came wet landings, hikes over rocks and uneven ground. Sometimes a transfer into a small inflatable, another landing, another hike, and finally a place where we sat and just waited for the bears to show up.
We could sit for three or four hours, eat lunch, watch the river and hope something appeared. My life jacket often doubled as a seat cushion.
Then we hiked back out and headed toward the lodge, watching for whales, sea lions and other wildlife along the way. Most days we got back around 6 p.m., tired, hungry and very ready to peel off the rubber gear.
Each boat captain was our main guide and incredibly knowledgeable about the wildlife and the area. Two or three additional guides also joined us, many from the Kitasoo Xai’xais Nation, so this wasn’t just a place they worked. It was home, and they knew it that way.
Our Best Sitting: A Spirit Bear on Day One
On our first full day, we were sitting above a waterfall where salmon were jumping when a large black bear raced down the rocks and started fishing.
Then one of our guides pointed out a huge white Spirit Bear, barreling down the same path. Seeing one at all would have been incredible, but this bear’s size was impressive.
The Spirit Bear did some salmon fishing, then after about 20 minutes he lunged for the Black Bear. They stood up on their hind legs, growling loudly, and swatted and bit each other. It was startling and scary to see. They would back off for a moment, then go at it again.
I caught the whole thing on my iPhone, and I still can’t quite believe I did. My husband and I looked at each other afterward and essentially said (jokingly), “Well, I guess we can go home now.”
We came hoping to see a Spirit Bear, and on the very first day we got far more than we expected.
Day Two and Grizzly Bears
The next day, we headed to a different area. After 90 minutes by boat, we transferred to a flat-bottomed boat to travel up a shallow stream in search of grizzlies. We stepped off into about nine inches of water, then hiked along the rocky shore to a spot the guides knew the bears frequented and settled in to wait.
After about an hour, they showed up. We spotted a mother bear with two cubs the guide said were about two years old. They fished for salmon, wandered along the stream, then swam across to the other side.
Our side.
The guides explained that the Kitasoo Xai’xais First Nation has lived on and cared for this land for thousands of years. The bear-viewing areas are protected and managed by the Nation. So visitors can’t simply head into the forest on their own. Access is through Spirit Bear Lodge and its guides.
Over the next few days, we went to different locations, where we saw more grizzlies and plenty of other wildlife. Our last day was the exception. We saw no bears, which is a good reminder that wildlife does not perform on schedule.
My Great Bear Rainforest Packing List
What I Actually Wore
Spirit Bear Lodge provided a packing list, but I still brought more than I needed. I had packed for a slightly dressier version of lodge life than actually existed.
Since our clothes were covered much of the day by rubber pants, boots and a life jacket, what I wore underneath needed to function, not impress anyone. I wore one pair of lightweight nylon UPF hiking pants, three pairs of Vuori joggers, and one pair of dressier sweatpants. In hindsight, two pairs of thin cotton pants and two pairs of lightweight joggers would have been plenty for six days.
On top, I rotated a lightweight cashmere sweater over a tank, a long-sleeve UPF shirt, and one very thin cotton turtleneck. I wish I’d brought more tops like the turtleneck.
Mornings were misty and cool, but it warmed up quickly once the fog burned off, so I was constantly shedding layers into my backpack. The life jacket added more warmth than I expected. What I really wish I’d packed was a lightweight windbreaker for the chilly morning boat rides, something thin enough to stuff into my backpack later. I brought a fleece jacket too, but mostly wore it while traveling.
Sun Protection, Bugs, and What I Carried
Sun protection mattered just as much as clothing. I brought a UPF buff, sunglasses, a baseball cap, and a huge packable sun hat that looked ridiculous but worked like a portable umbrella once the fog burned off. I was very glad I had it.
The bugs were another story. One day we had horseflies everywhere, and another day tiny no-see-ums ate me alive. My insect repellent seemed to act more like catnip for them. I came home with welts that lasted more than a week, so next time I’d bring two different repellents.
I borrowed a backpack from my daughter and used it every day for my phone, sunglasses, hat, bug wipes, lunch, water, and an extra layer. There was no Wi-Fi, so my phone was basically my camera. Plenty of people brought serious cameras, but my iPhone did the job and was much lighter to carry.
One thing I hadn’t thought about was phone access. A life jacket blocks your pockets, so a phone strap or crossbody would have been invaluable, both for easy access and to reduce the chance of dropping it in the water.
What I Didn’t Need to Pack
I had packed nicer pants and sweaters because I assumed people would change for dinner.
Most didn’t.
By the time we got back around 6, peeled off the rubber gear and had half an hour before dinner, changing clothes felt wildly ambitious. One casual dinner outfit and comfortable lodge shoes would have been plenty.
I barely touched two pairs of nicer pants, two sweaters, heavy walking sneakers, my book, or my knitting. The book and knitting had a very restful six-day vacation in my suitcase.
I did not.
Good Mobility Really Matters
This is not a passive sightseeing trip.
There are rocks, narrow paths, uneven ground, wet landings, and awkward boat transfers. On our first day, we even used ropes to get up one steep section. There were moments I wondered if I could do it.
The guides were always there to help, but balance and leg strength matter. If uneven ground, steep climbs, or getting in and out of small boats is difficult for you, I’d ask the lodge very specific questions before booking.
Also worth knowing: not every boat has a marine toilet. On some excursions, many of us used the woods, which is exactly the kind of detail I’d rather know before leaving the lodge at 8 a.m. for the day.
How Long Should You Stay at Spirit Bear Lodge?
We chose the six-day trip because seeing a Spirit Bear was one of the main reasons we were there, and more days gave us a better chance.
Wildlife is unpredictable, so the choice really comes down to how important a particular sighting is to you. Four days may be enough, but six gives you more chances. We saw a Spirit Bear on our first day, but I was still glad we had the extra time for grizzlies, whales and other wildlife.
We Saw the Second-Largest Whale in the World
This trip was never just about bears. On our final day, we visited the traditional Big House. We took part in several ceremonies, it was a beautiful way to end the experience.
On the boat ride back to Bella Bella to catch our flight, one of the guides mentioned that another boat had seen a fin whale, the second-largest whale in the world. She’d worked around whale watching for years and had never seen one.
I looked out the window and said, “You mean like that?”
“Oh, my God. That’s a fin whale.”
Everyone rushed outside. Seeing that whale’s enormous length moving through the water was breathtaking.
On the flight back to Vancouver, I watched melting glaciers below us and thought about just how much we had seen in six days.
I was exhausted, but I also knew I’d do it all again.
What a wonderful trip! I’m so glad you had this experience, and thank you for sharing it with your readers.
I loved your photography and the accompanying saga. I will live vicariously through your experience, I am much too fond of readily available toilets and I abhor bug bites, they make me miserable. Thanks for sharing your experience. Prior to this, I don’t think I’d even heard of spirit bears. They are stunning creatures.
What an exciting adventure! I love nature! This summer, at 78, I did a llama backpacking trip in Washington with my grand daughter. I love your descriptions. By the way, many women don’t know about various accessories that allow a “nature break” standing up. You can find them at outdoor stores or Amazon. A little practice and you are doing it almost as discreetly and easily as the guys. So glad you expanded your horizons and experienced a unique vacation.
What a fun trip with your grand daughter. check this out on Amazon. Thanks for mentioning it.
EXCELLENT RECAP OF YOUR TRIP & AMAZING PICTURES.
THANKS SO MUCH FOR SHARING!
Glad you liked it.
What an amazing trip! Your pictures and narration was wonderful. A trip you never forget.
What an amazing vacation! Thanks for sharing!
Beautiful post, took me back to Vancouver, virtually. That’s a long way from the east coast, but you took me there and I’m not tired at all.
Many thanks, Jennifer!
Wow Jennifer what an amazing way to celebrate a milestone birthday. You are an inspiration for when I hit mine in 4 years. I feel from your pictures that it was not only gorgeous but a spiritual experience as well. I am thrilled you had that time. Thanks for sharing the real real about the miss on packing but also how you were able to quickly make it work.
It was!
I am an avid hiker, and this type of vacation is my dream! So thrilled you got to do this!.
Thank you so much for sharing Jennifer and the wonderful photographs!! Amazing trip which I am sure stays with you. Those two bears fighting was incredible and the color of the Spirit Bear so gorgeous!
It was one of the most incredible experiences!!
What a spectacular trip! How fortunate you were to see the wild life that you did. Thanks for sharing so explicitly the details. I felt like I was there!!!
I’m so glad to hear that, Mary. I can’t even believe I did it because I don’t consider myself adventurous
How brave are you? I couldn’t even attempt a trip like that! I’m 76 & my husband is 79. I would love to see all the animals , but couldn’t do the hiking! I love your blogs! Thanks for sharing this amazing adventure!
We figured we needed to do it while we can.
Thank you so much for sharing your amazing trip! The video of the bears fighting is so special. Great 70th birthday!
Thanks. It is amazing. I was afraid to stop filming because it was so spectacular. I was sitting on an embankment about 40 feet? above the bears and was so shocked I scooted to the edge to capture the video. I really didn’t think about it, but in hindsight, it might not have been the safest thing to do.
Thank you so much for sharing this with us! What an amazing trip. This is definitely on our bucket list!
It is amazing
Very much enjoyed your post on your trip! Thanks for taking us along on your adventure.
Thank you for sharing your wonderful adventure and photos. Your packing tips are very helpful. I have been on adventures, packed for a change of clothes for dinner which were not needed or necessary unless in a very hot climate.
Jennifer, since you enjoyed this kind of trip I’d recommend you travel on UnCruise sometime. We have taken of their Alaska cruises, two of their Baja cruises, one Hawaii cruise, and two of their Pacific Northwest cruises. We have three more booked, one to Costa Rica this fall and two to Alaska next year. The vibe sounds very similar to the Spirit Bear Lodge experience, but since it’s on a small ship (no more than 100 passengers, some boats as few as 20), you go to the wildlife instead of waiting for it to come to you. Activities vary from easy to quite strenous, the food is excellent, and the people who take these cruises are quite congenial. The clothing you will need is just about the same as what you used on your trip. I think you would have a great time!
Amazing Maggie!! I will look them up. That sound so fabulous, thank you
Our travel group of 8 has booked the 4 day trip for next August based on your initial post. The 4 day timing worked out the best for us. We have traveled the world together, and this is “our kind of trip”. We are all in our “golden years”, but we are always looking for a new adventure. Thanks for telling us about this one!
Yay! Have an amazing time!!
You had an amazing adventure for your 70th birthday! Thank you for sharing it with us. Vicarious travel is all I can get anymore. It is not a trip for those of us with mobility issues and thank you for pointing that out. You probably wouldn’t have been as happy with your experience if you were only knitting or reading in front of a fireplace. You can do that at home. All of our vacations in our younger days, 40s to 60s were about bicycling across the Canadian Rockies, down the Oregon coast, of course hiking, camping and biking here in our beloved Colorado and skiing every winter. We live 2 1/2 hours from the best ski mountains in the country. So I remember…
Thanks Sydney. We do need to experience these things when the body is able. My hasband and I talk about that a lot.
Way to go on an adventurous trip!
You seem to just go with the flow and change directions on what you wear with no anxiety!
I wish I could do that!
What a spectacular trip!
It truly was!
Wow what an incredible experience you had! I really enjoyed reading this; it is a trip I think my husband and I would love. It’s very helpful to know the realities of the terrain, bathroom situation and what you did and did not need to bring. Much appreciated Jennifer!!
Wonderful, I can’t recommend this more highly.
Seafood IS meat, just fyi.
Fair…I should have said, I do not eat mammals who give birth to live young. I am not vegan or even vegetarion.
What an exciting adventure! This is my favorite post that you have written. I felt that I was right there with you on the choppy water. How thrilling to sed the wildlife that that exists on the coast of British Columbia. For the past few years, we have seen a variety of whales in Puget Sound and we have a half dozen deer that call our 55 plus community home. Have not been close to bears, though.
I’m glad I explained it well enough for you to feel that.
Jennifer, thank you for sharing your trip to Bear Spirit Lodge. I loved the photos of the bears. You were very lucky to see them in the wild.
Also, letting us know what to pack for this amazing trip.
What a wonderful, action packed trip! It was quite the accomplishment and a great way to celebrate your 70th.
It was amazing
What a fantastic trip! I’m so glad you got to see a Spirit Bear – so beautiful. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us.
Thank you so much for sharing your amazing trip!
A birthday you’ll never forget! Incredible experience. Fascinating to read about. Thank you.
It’s one of the best
Such a wonderful trip! Thanks so much for sharing with us. ❤️
Wow- what a fantastic trip of a lifetime! You were so lucky to see so many cool mammals. Sounds like it was absolutely amazing!
Thank you for sharing your pictures!! Seems like a wonderful trip to celebrate your 70th year!! You looked fabulous in the sun hat and great protection too.
Thanks Cheryl. I was certainly glad I had it!
Jennifer thank you so much for sharing about this unique and very special trip/experience!
Wow! I loved every word and picture of this post! Thank you!!
It took me a while and it turned out to be a picture book but I’m glass I organized it all together.
Sounds like an absolute adventure! And you look cute, even in waders and life jacket! I admire your courage and your ability to get to all the deep outdoors spots and also to potty in the bushes! Not sure I could have done all that! And it does not sound like you were ever scared! What an experience!
I was only nervous when we spotted bear scat 6 inches from our path along with a still glistening half eaten Salmon.
JUST WOW!
WOW! I am so happy for you and your husband that you took this trip. And here’s a lesson learned: travel when you still can. I would love this trip and so would my husband but he started having balance issues last year.
As for using your phone as a camera, when we went to Alaska I had my traditional camera with a zoom lens but had also purchased a top end iPhone with 10x zoom and I used that more than the camera. To keep from dropping it in the water (I know someone on that cruise who did!) I bought a JOTO waterproof iPhone case. It has a lanyard to go around your neck, said it would deliver crystal clear photos even though you’re spotting through a plastic film……and it did! Available on Amazon.
Thank you!! Great idea.
That sounds like a wonderful trip, I went to Alaska on a cruise ship a few years ago, this was preceded by a trip through the Canadian Rockies, the two things we wanted to see were bears and whales, we saw just one sleeping bear at the top of Grouse mountain and no whales at all. As you say wildlife doesn’t perform for us, it was still a great trip. So glad you enjoyed yours.
That train trip is amazing!! We did it about 40 years ago but saw no bears.
What a great adventure!
Oh my goodness Jennifer, what an amazing experience – I got goosebumps just reading about it! Quite different from my bear watching days. Any kid in the 1970’s who had a cottage in Ontario would know this. You would drive to the local garbage dump on a Saturday night to watch for bears picking through the garbage – and we would always see a few – from the safety of our cars of course.
Ah yes! They do love garbage dumps. We never did see them when I was growing up in Toronto in the 60s. But I do want to go to Churchill to see polar bears.
This sounds like a very adventurous but fantastic vacation!! I loved your recap of the trip. I’m showing this write up to my husband, and it’s also going on my bucket list.
Yay!! I hope you go.
What an excellent trip! Thank you for sharing.
Wow!! What a wonderful trip you had. So glad you were able to ho and enjoy it!
What an amazing trip!